By Kien Lee
In 2017, Breguet unveiled a horological masterpiece: the Marine Équation Marchante (with running equation of time, perpetual calendar and tourbillon), displaying an ability to reinvent itself through its countless innovations that have forged its success for more than 240 years. Early in his career, Abraham-Louis Breguet's talent earned him some of the highest distinctions in his field, including the official title of chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy, the most prestigious to which a horologist could aspire.
In 2018, a new generation of Marine timepieces is born, distinguished by this revamped aesthetic style established by its predecessor from just a year ago. An original bracelet lug, reworked fluting, as well as a crown surrounded by a wave decor and adorned with a wider "B" are seen in three new creations. These include the Marine 5517, the Marine Chronographe 5527 and the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547.
Breguet Marine 5517
The Marine 5517 in a 40mm case, displays the date at 3 o'clock, housed in an hours chapter with Roman numerals. The latter are coated with a luminescent material, as are the minutes markings and the Breguet hands. The seconds hand bearing a "B" in a reinterpreted version of the corresponding maritime signal flag, is a nod to its nautical roots.
Available in white gold, rose gold and titanium, the latter a first for the collection across all three new models. Titanium, resistant to salty air and corrosion, is also a light and particularly robust material. The titanium version features a sunburst slate grey dial, whilst the faces of the white gold and rose gold models both bear an engine-tuned "wave" motif. On the caseback, a singular oscillating weight features a design inspired by a ship's rudder. The movement visible through the sapphire crystal, with an engine-turned pattern reminiscent of boat decks.
Depending on the model, a brown or blue leather strap is available, or a rubber version for a more sporty style.
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527
Amongst the numerous inventions Abraham-Louis Breguet has been credited with, is the "chronomètre à doubles secondes, dit d’observation" in 1820 (now close to a bicentenary of existence), which in modern day English we call the split-seconds chronograph. It is without a doubt Breguet's breakthrough in chronographs has laid the ground for the entire watchmaking - and buying - industry's obsession with chronographs.
The Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 extends upon this proud history. A 42.3mm case features a central chronograph hand, with subdials at 3 o'clock for counting the minutes and at 6 o'clock for the hours. The small seconds is indicated at 9 o'clock. Date is displayed between 4 and 5 o'clock.
Three variations (white gold, rose gold and titanium) are available, similar to the Marine 5517.
Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Three horological complications - the alarm, a second time zone as well as the date - feature in the final La Marine roll-out for 2018.
When the striking mechanism is triggered, a ship's bell appears through an opening at 12 o'clock. The alarm and second time-zone indications appear in two separate subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock. The striking mechanism power reserve is discreetly visible between 9 and 12 o'clock. When the model is fully wound, the arrow points to the all-red indication at 9 o'clock.
Date display at 6 o'clock, with luminescent hands and markings ensuring easy reading of the time, at any time of the day.
Three variations (white gold, rose gold and titanium) are available, across these three new models, similar to the Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527