Haute Couture Week takes place from 19 to 23 January 2014, with Atelier Versace making its fifth presentation since January 2012, after a hiatus of 8 years, holding it at the Ritz Paris where the late Gianni Versace last showed his collection in July 1997.
Unlike the ready-to-wear fashion weeks that preview designs two seasons ahead, the couture showcases provide a preview of bespoke creations for the immediate next season.
Hooded ensembles stood out in Atelier Versace's showcase for the Spring 2014 season, kicking off Haute Couture Week in style, in a clear nod to the look iconicized by Grace Jones in the 1980s, first dressed by Azzedine Alaïa who also attended the fashion show.
Donatella Versace's designs have always aimed for the pomp, flair and the regal, which explains the many sightings of her creations on the red carpet.
"A contemporary goddess: power, determination, strength, and glamour — that’s what I was thinking about," the designer explained as the inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2014 made-to-measure collection.
And how this woman can show her soft side, being a Versace, because Versace is always very spectacular."
For the Spring/Summer 2014 season, slinky gowns were accentuated with cinched waists with sensual draping. Corsets consisting of a base of nude tulle embroidered with crystals arranged in thick, geometric lines, were an understated yet prominent compliment to the outfits.
Also featuring in the formalwear segment, the corsets were part of cocktail dresses, seen on an asymmetrically draped powder-blue bustier dress paired with an oversize fox-fur stole, as well as full-length gowns including a green outfit with its embroidered bodice framed by a plunging hood.
Indeed, the hoods inspired by Grace Jones in the 1980s were a highlight, occuring in various designs in the collection, revived once again in the glamor of haute couture.
Supermodel Lindsey Wixson was seen in a white silk jersey romper suit with neckline that plunged to the navel.
Fur was also a recurring theme, exemplified by an off-the-shoulder belted white fox-and-mink coat with a mesh hood studded with sparkling crystals.
Subtler elements like metallic chains served to trace anatomic patterns on snug shifts, while a floor-sweeping skirt made from a fabric containing fiberglass gave the impression of glistening liquid metal texture. Metallic silk dresses rounded out the collection.
Model Maria Borges was the closing outfit, adorning a richly embroidered black bustier siren dress topped with a similarly elaborate cropped leather jacket.
